Manly Scarf 3: Night on the Town

Well, so far I’ve been managing 1 free pattern a week — we’ll see if this keeps up ๐Ÿ˜‰

The Yarn
The yarn used in the sample is a soy/acrylic blend from Bernat; it has a slight sheen to it – very lovely to look at and to work with (eeew – don’t like ending a sentence with a preposition – who knew grammar teachers would haunt you the rest of your life!?).

Knitting this in white in a shiny silk or bamboo would make a beautiful tuxedo accessory.

No Gauge
I don’t provide gauges for these patterns because — well, it’s a scarf! Also, you can really use any yarn you wish, gauge really isn’t important in this case. Using the recommended needle on the ball band is often a good place to start. Note: Changing to a lighter or heavier yarn will change the width and length of the scarf and will use a different amount of yarn.

Finished Width: 8″ [20cm]
Yarn: Worsted weight; 340 yds [315m]
Needles: 4.5mm [US 7] needles
Finished Length: 48″ [1.2m]

The Edges
The instructions include a 2 stitch moss stitch edging (k1,p1). This creates a non-curling edge for the scarf.

If you like the edge of the scarf to curl then omit the 2 edge stitches on either side in the instructions. The curl uses approximately ยฝ of a pattern repeat. (Curled edges shown from front and back)

Night on the Town Scarf


Cast on 40 stitches.

Work 74 repeats (296 rows total) of the pattern sequence below.

Note: when working the lifted increase (picture tutorial below) be sure to complete the entire procedure i.e lift loop,slip loop onto left needle, knit lifted loop, knit next stitch, so that your stitch count wonโ€™t be off.

Pattern Sequence:
Stitch Pattern based on: Herringbone, The Harmony Guides 450 more Knitting Stitches Volume 2 (2004)

Row 1 (WS):ย P1, k1, purl to last st, k1.
Row 2:ย K1, p1, *k2tog, k2, Linc, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 3:ย Repeat Row 1.
Row 4:ย K1, p1, k3, Linc, k2, k2tog *k2, Linc, k2 k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k1, p1.

Finishing: Bind off and weave in ends. Block.

The bottom edge will have a very slight wave.


k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
Linc: lifted increase (see picture tutorial below)
p: purl
RS: Right Side
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: Wrong Side

Linc=Lifted Increase

  1. Insert the right hand needle tip into the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle
  2. Lift this loop onto the left hand needle without twisting it
  3. Knit this picked up loop
  4. Knit the stitch above the lifted loop on the left-hand needle

This makes an invisible increase.

Hereโ€™s a little sequence to keep all the steps in their proper place:
Lift, Slip, Knit, Knit



Oh, and when you make your scarf, send me the link if you publish a blog or send me a picture and I’ll gladly post if for you.

(c)2009 South Mountain ~ Naturally; 2014 Impeccable Knits
This pattern is protected under copyright. No portion of this pattern may be reproduced or reposted in any manner. The copyright remains solely with the owner. If you wish to share this pattern please provide a link to this blog.



  1. Row 4: K1, p1, k3, Linc, k2, k2tog *k2, Linc, k2 k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k1, p1.
    If I’m counting correctly, this row has 41 stitches. (9 before the *, 5×6* and 2)
    When I follow this row, I have to either omit the last k2tog and make “k3, p1” or I could knit to the last 3 stitches and do “k2tog, p1” Or maybe the k3 at the beginnning should read “k2”?
    Could you tell me what the correct way is for this row?

    Other than this conundrum, I love this pattern, btw… ๐Ÿ™‚


    • Hi, I’m so glad you like the pattern. It’s one of my favourite pattern stitches, too. The confusion may be arising with the “Linc” stitch in this pattern — it is a little unusual in that the definition includes knitting the stitch from which the increase is raised (there is a 4-step note just below the pattern stitch sequence on how this increase should be worked). Hope that helps. Luise

  2. Hi Luise,

    Thanks for the quick reply! I did read the note, but forgot what I had read after knitting row one… Sorry for bothering you with my inability to concentrate ๐Ÿ˜‰

    I’m doing the shawl in a beautiful colorway of Malabrigo Rios, if it turns out nice, I’ll send you a picture.

    Thanks! Kim

    • Hi Kim, Not a bother at all! lol I think we can all identify with those moments — and if there were an issue I’d much rather find out so I can correct it, so thanks so much for writing. Yes, please, I’d love to see a picture of your beautiful shawl — if you’re on Ravelry you can pm me there as well (I’m impeccableknits All the best, Luise

  3. Luise – I want to do this in a fingering weight but I’m having a hard time determining how many additional CO stitches I should add so I get the 8″ width. Help? Jill

    • Hi Jill,
      A bit of a preamble here, so please forgive if I over-explain ๐Ÿ™‚

      The stitch pattern itself is worked over a 7+1 stitch count and the pattern on the blog adds 2 Moss sts on either side (so as written: 5 reps of 7 sts = 35 sts +1 = 36 sts +4 edge sts = 40 sts).

      The sample was knit in worsted weight at a gauge of 20 sts/ 4″ so the 40 sts cast on = 8″ wide scarf.

      If your fingering yarn / needle combination yields the standard 28 sts = 4″, then aiming for around 56 sts should result in an 8″ wide scarf. However, your stitch count will need to fit the pattern repeat, so,
      7 reps of 7 sts = 49 sts
      +1 = 50
      + 4 edge sts = 54 sts

      Only swatching will tell, of course, but hopefully this gives you a good starting point.

      Cheers, Luise

  4. Hi Luise,

    I love the look of this pattern! I’m going to attempt to make this scarf for my sweetie for Christmas as it seems like it would be a good manly scarf. Before I get started however, I have a question. I have never done lifted increases, so I have been looking up video tutorials. I am finding there is a left and right lifted increase. Does your pattern use both or just the right lifted increase?

    Thanks in advance, can’t wait to get started!


    • Hi Michelle, This pattern uses just the Right Lifted increase. There’s a picture tutorial below the pattern — be sure to follow the directions there as directions for how to work lifted increases vary. In this case, the lifted increase includes working both the increase and the stitch on the Left Needle. Best wishes for your holiday knitting! Luise

    • Thanks Luise for the speedy reply! I thought that was the case but just want to make absolutely certain so as to save myself any frustration once I start. In going to use a Madelinetosh Pashmina Worsted in Sequoia. I bought it this summer while in Portland. Can’t wait to see the results of your lovely pattern with this beautiful yarn!

      Thanks again,

  5. Dear Luise,
    Thank you for offering this beautiful pattern. I do combination knitting so my forward and backward legs are opposite. If I use a left leaning decrease (ssk in traditional knitting) and a left leaning lifted increase for ease of knitting, will it mess up the pattern? I noticed for me that the left lift increase leaves no gap whereas the Right one does since my forward bar is the back stitch.

    • I wish I had the perfect answer for you – but having never tried this particular pattern in combination style, my best suggestion is to do a small sample by casting on, say 11 or 17 sts and try it out. The close-up picture on the blog post will give you a good comparison model to see if your fabric will look the same as the original style. All the best!

  6. This is an extremely curly stitch, I see, similar to stockinette…I’m test knitting it up in some 70% acrylic, 30% alpaca yarn, which I know is not going to block very well…if I want it to lay flat like all of the scarves in the photos, what are my yarn options besides traditional 100% wool?

  7. Me again, sorry I couldn’t think to leave this all in one post….I basically want my scarf to look exactly like the dark hunter green one in the very first photo. If in addition to describing the range of yarn fibers which will block well enough for a flat scarf in this pattern (since I note that yours is an acrylic blend), if you happen to know what that exact green yarn is, I would be grateful! Thanks so much.

    • Hi! I’ll try and answer both of your posts here. A good yarn choice depends on a number of factors – fibre content and ratios, type of twist and sometimes even the type of dyes used. All of these can affect how a yarn behaves. I’ve had people have good results with acrylic by ‘killing the acrylic’ during the blocking process — I have not tried this personally, though. For a non-wool fibre I might be tempted to try a bamboo blend yarn but unfortunately the best answer is to swatch your yarn in the pattern stitch and see what results you get for your yarn, personal gauge and blocking method.

      The green scarf in the photo is worked in Cascade 220 Superwash; here’s a link to SarahStockinette’s Ravelry project page where she lists the yarn and colour information.

      Best of luck! Luise

  8. I made this scarf in Knit Picks City Tweed DK, color Habanero (for my adult son). It came out awesome! Thanks so much for the pattern, I really enjoyed knitting this. Now I have to block it, and I made it extra long, so that is the not-so-fun part (for me).

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s